Preparing For Your Puppy

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• A Copy Of Your Contract and Health Guarantee Records For Your Vet (Includes Vaccine and Deworming History)
• AKC registration papers  (unless completed online)
• 30 Days of Free Pet Insurance through Trupanion or 
• A puppy blanket that smells like our home 
• A collar
• A leash
• A Small Toy or two
• A small package of puppy food
• A small bell (to train puppy to ask to potty)
• Any Items That You Mailed To Us For Scent Purposes (Ex. Snuggle Puppy)

• Plan Your Daily Schedule
• Have A Support System (Vet, Trainer, Groomer, Dog Walkers, Dog Sitters)
• Make An Appointment With Your Veterinarian
• RESEARCH Parasite Prevention
• Order/Purchase Your Dog Food (Iams Small Breed Puppy Food) ((Found at Chewy, Menards or Walmart) 
• Order/Purchase Your Dog Training Treats (Pet Botanics Training Rewards (found on Amazon.com)
• Toys... Don’t go crazy but get some good chew toys
• Safe Puppy Playpen
• Appropriate Sized Crate or one that comes with a divider 
• Easy To Clean Bedding
• Collars, Harnesses & Leashes
• Get The Grooming Basics (comb, brush)
• Remember, Grooming Includes Ears, Nails, and Teeth!
• Provide Good Footing on Hard Surfaces 
• Puppy-Proof your Home! Many pets are hospitalized or worse, die, every year because they ingest something that is poisonous to them. Check 

• Preplan potty stops if you have a long ride home ( read Parasite Prevention below)
• Don't stop where other dogs have pottied (your puppy's immune system is not  yet strong enough to fend off the countless germs you will find at a rest area or dog park or even at a grassy area at Mc Donalds)
• Bring Paper Towels and Clorox Wipes in case of accidents or car ssickness
• Bring an adult friend or family member to hold the puppy on the ride home OR
  A small carrier for the ride home
• For longer trips, bring water and water dish
• Prepare Your Children/Grandchildren:
  • Dr. Sophie Yin Posters (simply google and print) are excellent.
  • Get a stuffed animal puppy and practice
  • Speak with them about the child's safety and the puppy's 

Water:

• Keep fresh water available at all times during the day!
• Puppies get dehydrated easily, don’t leave them outside!
• Remove/Limit water 2 hours before bedtime when your puppy is in potty training. This helps keep puppies from “wetting” their crate
• Obviously, if they play hard and need a drink, don’t refuse to give them water! Just be conscious of water intake so you can properly prepare for the night ahead.
• Don't let the puppy go too long without water as this will cause dehydration.

Signs of dehydration:

• Pale/dry gums
• Skin Loses Elasticity
• Remember,diarrhea can cause dehydration

Food:

• Feed as much kibble as your pup wants to eat in one sitting 3x a day (typically  ¾ - 1 cup(s) per day). Once puppy leaves food alone for 5 minutes, pick up the food until his/her next meal.
• Increase the amount as your puppy grows and as recommended by your vet
  After about 2-3 months (or whenever pup seems less interested in lunch) switch to feeding only 2x a day. I do NOT recommend only feeding 1x a day, as this increases the risk of bloat.
• Don’t let your dog get overweight! Overweight = Health Problems!
• If changing foods, be sure to do it gradually to avoid loose stools! Some dogs may need a little more time than the below recommendations to avoid stomach upset.
  Start by mixing ¾ old food and ¼ new
  Day 2, mix ½ old and ½ new
  Day 3, mix ¼ old and ¾ new
  Day 4, serve only the new food
• If after a week puppy's stools are still loose, consider changing back or trying something new. Miniature Schnauzers are notorious for having sensitive tummies.

First Few Days Home/Food:

It is not uncommon for puppies to refuse to eat in the first 24 hours in their new home. That is okay! They are just distracted by everything else going on.
Sometimes puppies have some loose stool, this is very normal. If it continues beyond 24 hours, a spoonful of plain canned pumpkin (NO SUGAR added) can be mixed with their food to help firm up their stool. This should only be used a few times and is not a long term solution.
Remember! Persistent loose stool or diarrhea needs to be addressed by your vet.

• Puppy coat is different than adult coat! Puppy coats are easy to maintain, adult coats are NOT! Get puppies used to daily brushing before their coat changes.
• Give puppy a massage before you start to comb them. Brushing/combing should be done often with a slicker brush, dematting comb and wide tooth metal comb.
• Consider purchasing an electric toothbrush to “brush” puppy with to simulate a groomer’s clippers.
• Make it a habit to play with your pup’s paws on a daily basis. It will be much easier to clip nails when it comes time.
• Safari de-matting comb works great for getting out matted fur!
• A couple short trips to the groomer when they are small can produce a positive experience for grooming to come
• Even if you plan to 100% home groom and clip your dog in the long run, I highly recommend that you take your dog to a professional for the first 2-3 grooms so that your dog can become accustomed to the experience.
• Your dog should go to the groomer EVERY 6-8 weeks.
• Start your dog young, go regularly, and remember that regular home grooming is a necessary part of owning a miniature schnauzer.  

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don’t be the person that brings in a matted dog to the groomer 2-3x a year. This is painful for the dog and for the groomer! And will also give your dog a hatred for the whole grooming experience. If you do not want to regularly and thoroughly brush your dog at home, keep it in a short clip (and still go to the groomer regularly so that your pup stays short).

Grooming- Nails/Ears:

• Nail clipping is important! Don’t let your pup’s nails get extremely long. It can be severely painful for a dog to walk on long nails because their foot can’t fully extend with long nails. (Imagine walking everywhere on just the heels of your feet and your extra long toenails)
• Some Miniature Schnauzers need their ear hair plucked, others get an infection when they are plucked (especially if it is all removed at once)! We typically find that most dogs do just fine without ear plucking as long as you keep the hair around the ear trimmed to allow air flow.
• Keep insides of ears dry unless using an ear cleaner. Occasionally smell ears and if they smell funny (like stinky feet) make sure to clean them out! Once they start scratching/shaking, time to go to the vet! Dry and Clean Ears = No Ear Infections!

Grooming-Teeth:

• By the time dogs are 3 years old, most dogs already show signs of gum disease (also called periodontal disease). As a result, dogs may be at risk for some of the same problems that chronic infection can cause in people, including heart, liver, and kidney problems.
• For Good Doggie Dental Care Get your dog regular exams and cleanings. Good oral care doesn't start and stop with tooth brushing. It should include regular dental exams, including X-rays and a professional cleaning under general anesthesia. Start young.
• Brush gradually and gently. Start by putting a little toothpaste on their brush and let your dog lick it off. Then try touching the toothbrush to your dog’s teeth. After that, brush for a few seconds. 
• Take a month or two to introduce him/her to this new habit. When your dog is ready for a real brushing, raise her lips to expose teeth and gums. Then brush from the gum line to the tip of the tooth. Avoid opening your pet's mouth, which can lead to panic and struggling. 
• Use toothpaste made specifically for dogs. Toothpastes for humans contain certain types of fluorides and detergents that are meant to be spit out after you brush. Your dog will swallow toothpaste, so buy a product meant for pets. 
• Use a pet-specific toothbrush. The heads of brushes made for people are too wide for a Miniature Schnauzer's mouth, and even soft bristles are usually too hard. 
  Avoid finger brushes. Your finger is just too big to be a comfortable fit for your pup's mouth.
• If you have more than one pet, get each pet its own brush to avoid spreading germs. 
• Dogs benefit greatly from chewing every day on something that helps keep teeth clean.
• I use real raw or smoked beef bones from the butcher / meat department. They last nearly forever.
• Make tooth brushing fun and rewarding. Before and after brushing, praise, pet and play with your dog. 
• One of the best reinforcements is to brush your pup's teeth just before a meal. To remind yourself, put your pet's toothbrush near his food 

The secret to helping ease your puppy’s transition... best if pup sleeps in bed with you 1st night!This gets him/her used to your smell and helps them to adjust to their surroundings. Then you can slowly transition to the crate.

• Another alternative is to put your puppy in with another pet (make sure the other pet tolerates the new puppy and won’t attack it)
• If neither of these options are possible, keep kennel at a spot where the pup can see you and you can physically touch them (ex. on table next to bed)
• A common Question: How long can puppy be in crate? Age in months +2 (ex. 2 month old pup can be in crate for 4 hours).
• Go out 1x in the middle of the night the first few nights. CARRY pup outside to go potty, then right back to bed!Ex. Bedtime at 11:30PM, Potty At 3AM, Wake Up At 6:30AM
• Stick with a routine... bedtime needs to be at the same time every night!
• Invest in earplugs! Crying in a crate is very common, and every pup is different, some may whine and bark for 15 minutes and then go to sleep, others may continue on and off throughout the night. Be patient! And don’t scold or spank them for crying. It will only make them fearful of you.
• Don’t leave pup’s collar on when it is in the crate! Dogs have died from collars getting caught
• Crate = Happy Place, NOT a punishment. Feed your puppy a special crate treat or chew when they go into their crate.

• Have a universal “NO” noise that the whole family uses. Be sure your children can make this noise. Be FIRM and confident when you make this noise! Try to use something besides the word “no” as it is very common.
• Teach pup their name by tagging it on the end of “puppy puppy,” after a few days drop “puppy puppy.”
• Practice recall early using treats! You will have success!
• We use Pet Botanics Training Rewards (found on Amazon.com)
• For treats, we also use cut up carrots, green beans, cucumbers and hotdogs
• Don't use an excited greeting when you come and go... this creates separation anxiety and lots of barking upon your return.
• Leash train with a harness and a non-retractable leash! Retractable leashes = pulling and safety issues.
• The only time you should use retractable leashes is for nighttime potty breaks when you don’t want to step off the porch.

• Install Potty Bells! Your puppy will catch on quickly.
• Every time you bring your puppy outside to potty, ring the bell and bring them outside. Make sure they associate the ringing of the bell = potty.
• Set your stove/alarm clock every 30 minutes for puppy to go outside.
• When he is successful at 30 minutes for a day, increase the time in increments of 15 minutes. If an accident occurs, reduce the time by 15 minutes.
• At first, if you suspect that your puppy may be about to potty, immediately pick the puppy up and carry outside. 
• Go to the SAME spot outside every time and use a command (go potty).
• Reward with a treat once they have finished.
• When potty training, puppy belongs in 1 of 3 places. 

1. Directly interreacting with you / an adult...this means you have both eyes on the puppy at all times!
2. On a leash tied to you. This helps leash train and prevents the puppy from sneaking off to potty (typically they do not want to potty in their “living space.” 
3. In his/her crate (2-6hrs)

 Remember... a puppy naturally does not want to use the bathroom in a place where it sleeps and lives, it will wander away from these areas to potty.

If puppy has an accident...

• Use a rolled up newspaper and hit YOURSELF in the nose! You likely missed something. Think about why this occurred and what you can do differently
• Do not scold or punish the puppy. Do NOT rub their nose in it! This will only teach them NOT to use the bathroom in front of you (even outside).
• If you catch the puppy in the middle of an accident, let them finish and immediately take them outside.
• Enclose Rooms and Areas with Baby Gates/Puppy Fences
• As you puppy gets older and begins to earn freedom around the house, don’t immediately give them the entire home to live in. Start with 1 room (that you are in) and block off the exit with a baby gate.
• If you are a busy person/family, consider installing a dog door that goes to a fenced yard. Dog doors are not a replacement for potty training. They do not teach a pup to “hold” it and it is not safe for a young puppy to go outside unsupervised – but once a pup is trained, this makes things much easier for a busy family.

Take your puppy to the vet within 3 days of pickup day! This is a requirement for the Health Guarantee! We will provide a health, shot, and deworming history to give to your vet.

Our vet, Dr. Buckley at Colfax Animal Hospital, will give your puppy its first vaccine (called a DHPP) at 7 weeks of age. This is our vaccine schedule, your vet may recommend something slightly different, that is okay! Just make sure that you vaccinate based on your lifestyle
 

7 Weeks: DHPP (our vet administers this vaccine)
10 Weeks: DHPP and Bordetella 
13 Weeks: DHPP and Rabies
16 Weeks: DHLPP 

Your puppy is NOT safe around unvaccinated dogs OR in areas where your puppy could pick up germs left behind from unvaccinated dogs!!! This includes, but is not limited to, dog parks, pet stores, animal shelters, feed and seed stores, parks, dog-friendly restaurants and breweries, around the neighborhood sidewalks, dog groomers, dog trainers... the list could go on and on!

Watch Out For Poop:

The primary mode of transmitting viruses and parasites (such as parvo, a deadly virus) is through contact with an infected dog’s poop.
Secondary contact is also a concern.
Practice safe “biosecurity” habits, remove shoes at the door!

Symptoms that something is wrong…

• Abnormal Temperature (Normal 100.5-102.5 Degrees Fahrenheit) o
• Dehydration
• Lethargy
• Severe Diarrhea
• Depression with sudden Lack of Appetite or Crying or Occasional, Unexplained Yelping or Rigid, Painful Abdominal
• Vomiting or Heaving
• Bloody, mucousy, or black,tar-like stool.

Pet Insurance:

• Your puppy goes home with a certificate to activate 30 days free though Trupanion. YOU MUST ACTIVATE THIS WITHIN 24 HRS OF PICKUP. This is a requirement of your Health Guarantee.
• AKC also provides 30 days of free pet insurance when you register your pet online. They will also pay for your first puppy wellness exam ( not including vaccines ) to AKC affiliated Veterinarians
• Pet Insurance companies require a 14-30 day waiting period for various accidents and illnesses... so if you decide to use another company than Trupanion, sign up for it right away! This way, the Trupanion trial period will cover you during the waiting period.
• Pet Insurance is worth investing in, especially for that first year where they are more likely to swallow something. In some areas, blockage removal is $5,000+!
• Depending on your deductible, most Pet Insurance policies run about $30-$40/mo.

Balancing Biosecurity with Socialization:

• EARLY socialization is absolutely crucial to raise a well rounded pup.
• Be safe- but don’t harm your puppy by confining them in a “bubble” for the first 2 months with you.
• Socialize with “safe” vaccinated, adult dogs! They will teach your puppy canine manners. Ideally, visit a friend's home for playdates with their vaccinated dogs 2-3x a week, or more if possible. 
• Avoid socializing your puppy with older puppies or larger puppies (anything less than 12-18 mo of age)
• Allow older dogs to correct your puppy
• When in doubt about the safety of a situation, just pick up and hold your pup! At the vet, in pet stores, on walks around the neighborhood, or if a strange dog approached you…

Do These Daily 

1. Massage/Brush

2. Hold paws and squeeze between toes

3. Check ears for infection 

4. Check collar (2 finger rule)

5. Clean eye boogers! Schnauzers always have them.

6. Get your puppy socialized with other dogs and new situations on a daily basis! BE   SAFE!

7. Work on some obedience training, even for just 5 minutes

8. Have puppy spend 15-45 minutes in it’s crate while people are in the same general area(during dinner is a good time)

Final Advice: 

• Find a good trainer and start taking puppy classes the second your puppy has finished its vaccines. I cannot stress all the benefits that come from this.
•  Make friends with your groomer, listen to your groomer, and tip them well!!!
• Socialization and early exposure to new sounds, sights, people, animals, and situations is key to a balanced adult dog.
• Positive reinforcement training is always better than negative.
• Parasites in puppies are an unfortunate fact of life. Giardia and sometimes coccidia nearly always infect pups between 6-12 weeks of age, whether they are with me or with you. As your puppy grows, its immune system will kick in and you should no longer have issues with these “puppy bugs” after about 6 months of age.
• I do not recommend any oral flea/tick preventatives.
• I do not reccomend rawhide chews, treats not made in the USA or pig ears 
• I do not recommend toys with ropes attached 
• Vets are wonderful, but they are not always right (especially when it comes to nutrition). If you feel like something is wrong, listen to your gut.